Battle of the London Laksas: traditional versus viral quick hit

We’ve all got that Southeast Asian comfort-craving moment - warm, spicy, coconutty broth slurping us into nostalgia. This week, two restaurants squared off in my culinary taste-test: Med Salleh Kopitiam, an authentic Malaysian gem, and Phat Phuc Noodle Bar (yes, you read that right), a Vietnamese-inspired viral laksa favourite near my university. The result? A clash of tradition and fast-paced innovation—with tradition edging to victory.

What’s Laksa anyway?

Laksa is a spicy noodle soup born from Peranakan cuisine in Maritime Southeast Asia. It marries Chinese noodles with Malay coconut curry or sour tamarind broth. Common toppings include prawns, chicken, herbs, noodles, and a broth that can range from creamy coconut to tangy, making laksa a deeply-rooted example of Southeast Asian cultural fusion.

Med Saleh Kopitiam: Heritage on the Table

Located in Queensway since 2018, Med Salleh is helmed by Malaysian sisters Sarah and Amira Salleh. From the moment you sink into this neighbourhood kopitiam’s green-checked tables, you’re in Malaysian kitchen territory: authentic banana-leaf plates, nostalgic soundtrack, and cooking that feels like grandma’s kitchen. Their philosophy is simple: preserve recipes passed down through generations and honour ingredient integrity.

As soon as you step in, the air is drenched in that unmistakable fish‑sauce fragrance, while your eyes immediately land on the vivid pink Badung drinks (rose syrup drinks) dotted across the tables.

Curry Laksa Noodles

Their laksa arrives steaming in an impossibly aromatic bowl: creamy coconut broth with a gentle layer of spice right beneath the surface. It’s packed with chicken, pink prawns, clams, cuttlefish, a couple of okra, tender tofu soaking up the broth, beansprouts and both thicker yellow noodles and silky rice vermicelli. So basically everything but the kitchen sink, and boy does it work! Every time your chopsticks plunge into that bowl of noodles, they unearth a new delight in each bite.

While it’s not eye-watering spicy, the balance of umami, coconut sweetness, and fragrant spices is hypnotic. Every spoonful tastes like a memory, right down to the faint tang of tamarind and the earthy kiss of galangal. It’s comfort in a bowl and done so well. You may think the portion will be too large but you’re left slurping every last drop.

Ais Kacang mountain

And the finale, a traditional Ais Kacang that nearly stole the show. Imagine a vibrant mountain of finely crushed ice piled high with colourful jelly, sweet corn, crunchy peanuts, and drizzled with creamy condensed, evaporated, and coconut milk. Then there’s the aromatic palm sugar swirl, called gula melaka, tying it all together. Each spoonful is a refreshing explosion of flavours that transports you right to Kuala Lumpur in sweltering summer and even the a touch of dry ice to add even more theatre.

Phat Phuc Noodle Bar: quick-hit, viral energy

Phat Phuc feels like a lively pop-up but it’s been a staple stall for years. Located in a marquee-like set-up off Sydney Street in Chelsea, the entire kitchen operates outdoors: a sizzling noodle bar behind a service window, makeshift benches under bare bulbs, and steam rising into the evening air.

Now it’s gone viral - expect long queues snaking around the corner, orders flowing fast, and two stern aunties who bark reminders if you’re too slow. It’s raw, fun, chaotic…and yes, I first discovered this hidden gem long before the internet did, back when Imperial students kept it buzzing in the shadows.

The Prawn Laksa

Their take is leaner and spicier: big tiger prawns float atop vibrant vermicelli and egg noodles, all bathed in a sharper chilli-coconut broth. Less is more here—no fishcake or chicken, just prawns, noodles, and heat. The first slurp electrifies with chilli-tinged heat, creamy coconut warmth, and juicy prawns that feel freshly steamed—not overdone. It’s an adrenaline shot rather than a languid hug.

I will say though, the small portions leave you wanting more. I could definitely polish off two bowls!

Maui Wowee Slice

Another dish stole my attention: Mango Sticky Rice, made with premium jasmine rice and fresh ripe mango. Its sweetness felt nostalgia-heavy, even more than the laksa. The rice is creamy, subtly salted, and the mango juicy and trailing sunshine on your tongue. I found myself savouring it slowly. Another standout, even though it’s not laksa.

Surprisingly the rice was the star of the dish, not the mango, which is my usual favourite.

The Verdict

For depth, emotion, and experience, Med Salleh’s laksa and ais kacang blew it out of the water. It feels rooted, soulful, and nourishing. Phat Phuc does fast-paced flavour with flair, and their icy mango rice belongs in its own food newsletter.

But for sustained comfort and layered taste, Med Salleh is the winner.

Another London Laksa worth mentioning: try the Laksa at Bugis Kitchen in South Kensington.

Five Films that shaped the 21st Century

The New York Times recently announced its list of the 100 best films of the 21st century—decided by over 500 directors, actors and critics. We’re counting down the top five, along with a few surprising outliers.

Honorable Mentions

Bridesmaids (2011) gets #32 spot—as the highest wedding comedy on the list.

Spirited Away (2002) – Hayao Miyazaki’s animated masterpiece appears at #9.

Get Out (2017) – Jordan Peele’s sleek horror/thriller stands at #9.

Interstellar (2014) – The Christopher Nolan classic takes the surprisinly low, #89 spot.

WALL-E (2008) – #34 - The highest animated film on the list other than Spirited Away.

Top 5 Countdown

5. Moonlight (2016) – Barry Jenkins’s vivid triptych on Black identity, sexuality and memory won Best Picture. Its subtle, lyrical storytelling has resonated deeply with critics worldwide

4. In the Mood for Love (2000) – Wong Kar-wai’s rumination on forbidden love in 1960s Hong Kong feels timeless. Its visuals and unspoken longing still haunt modern cinema .

3. There Will Be Blood (2007) – Paul Thomas Anderson’s oil-rig epic is a relentless character study and cinematic odyssey. Widely lauded = Rolling Stone even named it the best film of the century .

2. Mulholland Drive (2001) – David Lynch’s puzzle-box of Hollywood dreams and nightmares remains a feverishly discussed masterpiece of ambiguity .

1. Parasite (2019) – Bong Joon-ho’s genre-crushing class satire swept the Oscars and the top spot on the NYT poll . It’s bold, darkly comedic, impeccably crafted—a global commentary that transcends film.

It comes as a surprise to me that I have only watched 28 of the films on the Top 100 list, so I have plenty more films to watch in my spare time.

If you want to know how many films you have seen on the list, read it here on the NYT Top 100 films: https://www.nytimes.com/interactive/2025/movies/best-movies-21st-century.html