Battle of the London Laksas: traditional versus viral quick hit

Seafood sensation is splashing onto London’s plates with two contrasting yet equally compelling rivals: Chishuru, the West African–inspired, Michelin-starred newcomer in Fitzrovia, and Bocca di Lupo, the established Soho Italian beloved for its seafood pastas and punchy flavours. I visited both this week, and although they share a marine focus, each delivers a wholly different dining journey.

Chishuru: West African spice meets seafood finesse

Since its permanent opening in Fitzrovia in late 2023, after a buzzy Brixton pop-up, Chishuru (pronounced chi-SHUR‑oo) has become one of London’s most exciting seafood destinations. Founded by Adejoké Bakare, who became the first Black woman to earn a Michelin star in the UK, and co-owner Matt Paice, Chishuru’s philosophy blends West African traditions with modern hospitality. Housed in a bright Georgian townhouse, the restaurant’s interior feels equal parts home and hall, white-washed brick, punched-metal lighting, and big windows.

As soon as you step in, the air is drenched in that unmistakable fish‑sauce fragrance, while your eyes immediately land on the vivid pink Badung drinks (rose syrup drinks) dotted across the tables.

What’s on the Menu

The menu evolves regularly, but seafood remains at the centre. A standout starter is the bean cake with scallop & cod boudin blanc served with zingy anchovy sauce that crackles with chilli warmth. For mains, dishes like chargrilled squid with nduja butter or coconut-poached cod with jollof rice showcase cross-cultural creativity without gimmick.

I was struck by how each dish balances spice, texture, and freshness: heat that hums but never overwhelms, poached fish that flakes beautifully, and rice that speaks of earth and depth. A perfect example was the poached monkfish tail with blackened tomato spice sauce, where umami fresh sauce contrasted the tender monkfish deftly.

The Vibe

Service is polished yet warm: the team explain every component and genuinely seem proud of the fusion they’re building. A meal at Chishuru makes you feel nourished, intrigued, and confident that seafood can be the vehicle for cultural bridge-building.

Bocca di Lupo: seafood with an italian heart

Opening in 2008 on Archer Street, Bocca di Lupo quickly became the go-to Soho destination for regional Italian cuisine. Co-founded by Jacob Kenedy (of Moro fame) and Victor Hugo, the restaurant offers small-to-share plates showcasing Italy’s coastal seafood heritage. The marble‑topped bar, open kitchen, and friendly waitstaff give it energetic, can‑do authenticity.

Taste of Italia

Popular dishes include clam spaghetti, whipped with chilli, garlic, black pepper and parsley in silky sauce; its balanced punch of spice, seafood sweetness, and al dente bite makes it a crowd-favourite.

Another is the sea‑bream carpaccio with orange and rosemary, cold and tangy, each citrus slice lifting the fish in bright contrast. We paired it with a crisp Falanghina white—all adding to the lively Soho dive-bar meets trattoria charm.

While Chishuru leans on spice and stew-like richness, Bocca di Lupo celebrates restraint: seafood in simple, classic form, with seasoning that enhances rather than competes. You end the night feeling satisfied, uplifted, and utterly comforted.

Face-off

The Verdict

Chishuru delivers creativity with precision—a modern fusion destined for Michelin tables. Bocca di Lupo remains a reliable classic—a place where Italian seafood is treated with respectful simplicity.

For sheer inventiveness and warmth via spice, Chishuru takes the crown. But for comfort and consistency, Bocca di Lupo remains a stalwart Soho favourite.

Purse Power: Birkin Breaks Auction Record

Paris saw the world’s most famous handbag smash previous auction records last week when an original Jane Birkin–commissioned Hermès Birkin sold for a staggering €8.6 million at a Sotheby’s sale. Ultimately, the winning bid came from a private collector in Japan, securing the piece via phone lines.

The bag, crafted in 1984 during her flight returning from Mecca, where Birkin sketched the design on an air-sickness bag, was personalised with her initials and famously contained small mementos like nail clippers. The sale eclipses all prior Birkin auction results and underlines the surreal convergence of fashion and collectability.

This was no ordinary handbag sale. The item had been consigned by a private collector and was hotly contested—international bidders sparred both online and in the room as final offers soared. As one auctioneer nodded, “It’s not just a handbag—it’s history.” Jane Birkin famously co-created the original design with Hermès, seeking elegance and function, and this piece, with proven provenance, retains that creative authenticity.

Fashion critics note that Hermès Birkins have long been coveted investment pieces, but this sale cements them as cultural artifacts worthy of museum consideration. Some argue the bag belongs in a museum rather than a private vault, but collectors insist it’s art meant to be held.

Even Hermès can’t match this price: factory–fresh Birkins now start at around €12–€15k, illustrating how rarity, provenance, and celebrity combine to elevate everyday items into multimillion-euro memorabilia.